U Street & Shaw: Before and Since 1968
On April 4, 1968, the news of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.'s assassination shocked African American communities across the United States. In Washington, DC, shock and sadness were accompanied by anger, as a large gathering of community members turned violent. Over the course of four days, protesters burned, looted, and destroyed buildings in the neighborhoods of U Street and Shaw. The National Guard was summoned by President Johnson to restore order. By April 8th, Washington attempted to return to the status quo.
The acts of 1968 did not occur in a political vacuum. African Americans had experienced decades of housing segregation, unequal funding of education, and police tensions in the nation's capital. By April 1968, racial tensions, segregation, and national pressure surrounding the Civil Rights Movement reached a boiling point, but these neighborhoods are not defined by the violence that swept through them.
U Street and Shaw are home to tight-knit communities, whose homes and businesses exist in buildings that bear witness to the city's development throughout 19th and 20th centuries. The neighborhoods experienced aftershocks post-1968, as people and capital departed. Today, renewed interest in urban living has led to rehabilitation of many vacant buildings, but also rising rents that threaten to displace individuals and businesses that remained post-1968. The following sites provide a fuller history of U Street and Shaw, using April 1968 as a pivotal time in their development.
This walking tour covers 1.7 miles and will take approximately 45 minutes to complete.
Sites 11

Lincoln Theatre: The Lincoln Theatre served as the center of the U Street Black business community and the heart of Black culture and entertainment.
A major element of the historic U Street commercial corridor, the Lincoln Theatre is a rare early movie theater. The Lincoln was completed in 1921 in the sumptuous style of the grand movie palaces of…
Ben's Chili Bowl: Ben's Chili Bowl is a well-known restaurant in the Greater U Street Historic District and is one of the few businesses in the area that predates 1968.
The Greater U Street Historic District is a Victorian Era neighborhood, developed largely between 1862 and 1900. The area consists of a coherent group of row houses constructed overwhelmingly by…
True Reformer Building: This landmark of U Street NW is considered one of the first buildings in the United States to be designed, funded, and built by the Black community.
The United Order of True Reformers served as a bank and insurance company that catered to the Black community, and was the first major commission of prominent Black architect John A. Lankford. The…
Whitelaw Hotel: The Whitelaw apartment-hotel stands as a unique place of meeting and public accommodation for prominent African Americans during segregation.
The Whitelaw Hotel showcases an early example of minority real estate development. It was financed and built entirely by African American entrepreneurs, investors, designers, and craftsmen. Associated…
Anthony Bowen YMCA (Twelfth Street YMCA): This was the first full-service metropolitan building erected for the African American YMCA, and one of the oldest of a remaining handful of locations.
The Anthony Bowen YMCA is home to the nation's first African American chapter of the Young Men's Christian Association. The building is four stories and reflects the Italian Renaissance Revival style.…
Lincoln Congregational Temple United Church of Christ: The Lincoln Memorial Congregational Temple is a tangible expression of social and educational heritage of DC's African American community.
The current building for the Lincoln Congregational Temple United Church of Christ was built in 1928 and designed by architect Howard Wright Cutler; however, the site of the church has been used by…
Phyllis Wheatley YWCA: Established in 1905 by African American women, the Phyllis Wheatley YWCA has been a continuous support system and advocate for its community.
The oldest “Y” in DC, the Phyllis Wheatley YWCA (Young Women’s Christian Association) was established in 1905 by African American women and named after Phyllis Wheatley, an enslaved woman and famous…
Third Baptist Church: This church is one of the most important extant buildings designed by Calvin T.S. Brent, the first African American in Washington trained as a professional architect.
Since its construction in 1893, this Gothic Revival church has been a dominating presence in its neighborhood of small two-story row houses. The first trained African American architect in DC, Calvin…
George M. Barker Company Warehouse: Built in 1906, the George M. Barker Company lumber warehouse is a reminder of a largely vanished economy in DC.
Designed by Arthur M. Poynton and built in 1906 by George M. Barker Company, this warehouse accommodated the millwork and lumber firm established just after the Civil War. As DC experienced rapid…
O Street Market (Northern Market): The O Street Market is one of three remaining nineteenth century public markets in the city.
The O Street Market exemplifies the large, functional, well-designed market buildings erected in DC under the massive public works campaign headed by Alexander “Boss” Shepherd. After the Civil War, DC…
Immaculate Conception Church, School, Rectory, and Residence
Founded in 1864, Immaculate Conception was the first mission church of Saint Patrick’s, organized to serve the Roman Catholic population in the then-sparsely settled area north of Mount Vernon Square.…Tour curated by: DC Preservation League